Description
Ulysse Nardin Dual Time (Ref. 243-00): innovation and elegance for the world traveler
Ulysse Nardin, a Swiss watchmaking manufacture with a rich history dating back to 1846 and a strong heritage in marine chronometers, is known for its innovative and often daring creations. One of its most practical and user-friendly complications is the Dual Time system, which has found its iconic rendition in models with a reference number beginning with 243-00. This watch represents a great combination of functionality, elegance and the typical Ulysse Nardin design language.
The revolutionary Dual Time system by Ulysse Nardin
What sets the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time apart from many other GMT watches is the ingeniously simple way of setting the second time zone (local time). Instead of manipulating the crown, the watch features two pushers, typically located on the left side of the case (at the 8 and 10 o'clock positions):
- "+" button: Press to advance the main hour hand (showing the local time) by one hour.
- The "-" button: Press to move the main hour hand back one hour.
This operation is possible while the watch is running, without affecting the accuracy of the timekeeping (the minute and second hands continue to run) or the display of the home time. The home time (reference time) is permanently displayed in a dedicated window, which is usually located at the 9 o'clock position on the reference 243-00 and uses a 24-hour format to easily distinguish between day and night. This system is incredibly intuitive and practical for anyone who frequently travels between time zones.
Design and Aesthetics of the 243-00 Series
The 243-00 family of watches is characterised by its elegant yet robust design, typical of Ulysse Nardin:
- The case: It is most often made of stainless steel, although there are also variants made of precious metals (gold). The case diameter for this reference is usually around 42 mm, which is a modern size suitable for most wrists. The finish often combines polished and brushed surfaces. The screw-down crown contributes to good water resistance.
- Dial: The dials of the 243-00 models tend to be clear and easy to read. They often bear distinctive applied indices or Roman/Arabic numerals. Apart from the central hour and minute hands and the aforementioned home time window at 9 o'clock, the dominant feature is the large date ("Big Date") indicator, usually located at the 2 o'clock position. The small seconds hand is often located on the sub-dial at 6 o'clock. Common dial colours include silver, black or blue. A durable sapphire crystal, often with an anti-reflective finish, covers the whole.
- Strap/Bracelet: The models come on different types of straps - from high-quality leather (often alligator) to sporty rubber to metal bracelets made of steel or gold that match the case material.
Machine: calibre UN-24
At the heart of the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time watch with reference 243-00 is the usually automatic calibre UN-24. This movement is based on a proven Swiss base (often the ETA 2892-A2), but significantly modified and supplemented with the patented Dual Time and Big Date module directly from Ulysse Nardin.
- Type: Automatic winding
- Features: Hours, minutes, small seconds, large date, home time display (24h), quick setting of local time with buttons (+/-).
- Running reserve: Usually around 42 hours.
- Frequency: Standard 28'800 VpH (4 Hz).
While it is not a fully manufacturable movement in the later sense (UN has gradually moved to more in-house calibers), the UN-24 is a reliable and robust solution that performs perfectly and allows unique control of the Dual Time complication.
Practicality and Target Group
The Ulysse Nardin Dual Time 243-00 is an exceptionally practical watch. The ease of setting the local time without having to stop the watch is invaluable when crossing time zones. The large date ensures great legibility and the water resistance (often 100 meters) adds to the versatility for everyday wear.
This watch is ideal for:
- Frequent travelers and traders.
- Watch lovers who appreciate practical and innovative complications.
- Interested in the Ulysse Nardin brand and its specific design style combining maritime heritage with modern elegance.
Conclusion (as of 3 April 2025)
While the Ulysse Nardin model line is constantly evolving and new references with manufacture movements are emerging, the Dual Time watches of the 243-00 family remain a sought-after and prized model, whether new from earlier stocks or on the secondary market. Its main asset is, and always will be, the ingeniously simple and intuitive push-button second time zone control system, which is still considered one of the best solutions to this complication on the market today. Together with its elegant design and practical functions, it is a great choice for anyone looking for a sophisticated and reliable travel companion.
